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Garden Tips and Ideas

Sturdy Tomato Trellis

Earlier in the spring I’d posted a short note about making a cat’s cradle for tomatoes. Though I am still using cages in my raised beds, I’m always looking for ideas for when my garden will expand into bigger areas. I found this detailed plan for a very sturdy looking tomato support system. The materials are simple, but look really effective. Saving for later reference!

 

One of the most aggravating things about growing tomatoes is finding something that will actually support them.

Unfortunately, the cages and stakes you find at garden centers and big box stores never seem to cut the mustard. They work great for the first two months, but once the plants mature it’s almost a guarantee that the tomatoes will end up on the ground.

One day while browsing one of my favorite vegetable gardeningsites, Kenny Point’s veggiegardeningtips.com, I came across a really neat tomato trellising idea. Kenny had a video demonstrating his tomato trellis and how it worked. It was a very simple, yet very promising way to support tomatoes.

I decided that I had to build a tomato trellis for my vegetable garden like the one Kenny used.

The Tomato Trellis

How to Build an Easy Tomato Trellis

What I liked about Kenny’s trellis is that it looked so easy to build and didn’t require any special tools and equipment. It also looked like you could set it up very quickly.

Simple and quick. That’s what I’m talking about!

Here’s a list of materials you will need to build the tomato trellis:

Fence T-posts

You will need to use the green T-posts normally used for fencing. How many you need will depend on how many tomatoes you are growing and how long a row you have.

I would recommend using as many T-posts as possible, because this is what will support the weight of your tomatoes. Spacing the T-posts between five to eight feet apart should give your tomatoes plenty of support.

To give you an idea of how many you may need, I have a row of tomatoes that is thirty-eight feet long. I used a total of six T-posts spaced out about seven and a half feet apart.

Purchase the tallest T-posts you can find. The tallest T-posts I could find were seven feet tall at Lowe’s. With eighteen inches in the ground that means my trellis will be about five and a half feet tall.

100 ft Roll of Plastic Clothesline

100 Foot Roll of Plastic Clothesline

The plastic clothesline will string between the T-posts to form a “wall” for the tomato plants. The plants will be tied to the clothesline as they grow.

I opted to go with the plastic clothesline because it seemed like it would be easier to work with than the wire. You can also use 14 or 16 gauge wire as Kenny used in his tomato trellis video.

I would avoid using twine or string because I don’t think it would be strong enough once the tomatoes get real big.

Mounting Hardware

You will need some mounting hardware to attach the clothesline to the T-posts. An eye bolt and nut will be needed on one end of the trellis, while a small turnbuckle will be needed on the other end.

I like the turnbuckle because it gives you the ability to tighten the line to get it really snug for supporting the tomatoes. This may be needed later down the road if the line ever starts to sag, you can always go back and re-tightened it up again.

You will need enough eyebolts and turnbuckles to make five to six rows of clothesline. I purchased five eyebolts and turnbuckles. If I need more later I can always go back and get them.

Eyebolt and Nut AssemblyTurnbuckle Assembly

Here’s the complete list of materials for the tomato trellis to accomodate the 38 foot tomato row:

    • 6 – T-posts, seven ft tall
    • 1 – 100ft roll of plastic clothesline
    • 5 – 1/4″ eyebolts with nuts
    • 5 – 1/4″ turnbuckles
  • 1 – roll of string (if needed)

Setting Up the Tomato Trellis

The first thing you should do is place a T-post at each end of the row for the tomatoes. Make sure each post is plumb using a level, then use your foot to drive it into the soil until the small plate on the post is even with the soil level.

If you have compacted soil you may need to use a heavy hammer to drive the post in the ground. Lowe’s also carries a post driver tool if you need it.

Install a T-post on Each End of the Row

With both end posts plumbed and installed, next you will need to run a string from one of the end posts to the other.

Tie the string to one side of the post and run it down to the other post and tie it to the same side of that post.

This string will be a guide so you know where to place the inner T-posts. You want the T-posts to be in a straight line.

Run a String from One End Post to the Other

Now space the inner T-posts equally across the distance between the two end posts. My end posts are 38 feet apart so I will space the four inner posts about seven and a half feet apart. Use the string line as a guide to keep the T-post in a straight line.

Once you have all the inner posts in the proper location drive them in the ground and check to make sure they are plumb.

Again, you want the small plate attached at the bottom of the post to be at the soil line.

Attaching the Hardware and Running the Clothesline

With all of the T-posts installed it’s time to attach the hardware and run the clothesline.

Install an eyebolt in one end post using a hole that is about ten to twelves inches above the ground. It should be the second hole from the bottom. If you want the first row of line to be lower or higher, that’s fine.

Install an Eyebolt In One End Post and Tighten

Go to the other end post and attach the turnbuckle to the same height hole as the eyebolt. Unscrew the eyebolt on one side of the turnbuckle and stick it through the hole in the T-post.

Insert Eyebolt from One End of Turnbuckle Into End Post

Unscrew the other eyebolt in the turnbuckle so it is out as far as it will go without coming out. Screw the turnbuckle back onto the eyebolt inserted in the post a couple of threads – just enough so it will stay on.

You want the turnbuckle extended out as far as it will go before attaching the line so you will have the full range of it for tightening.

Re-attach Turnbuckle to Eyebolt In Post

With the eyebolt and turnbuckle installed on the end posts, tie one end of the clothesline to the turnbuckle and run the line to the other T-post.

Tie One End of Clothesline to Turnbuckle

Leave enough length of clothesline on the other end for tying a knot and cut the line with some scissors or a sharp knife.

Run the Clothesline to the Other End and Cut Length as Needed

Go to the T-post closest to the post with the turnbuckle and begin running the clothesline through the holes in the inner posts that is the same height as the turnbuckle and eyebolt you already installed.

Continue running the clothesline until you reach the T-post with the eyebolt at the other end.

Run Clothesline Through Each Inner Post

Once you get to the end with the eyebolt, run the clothesline through the eye and pull the clothesline tight. You want to get the line as tight as possible, but don’t yank it so hard you pull the T-posts over.

With the clothesline tight, tie the line to the eyebolt. Make sure to tie good knots so they will hold under the tension. My grandfather used to say, “If you can’t tie a knot, tie a lot”.

Pull the Clothesline Tight Then Tie to Eyebolt

Here’s where the usefulness of the turnbuckle comes in. Use a wrench on the turnbuckle to tighten the clothesline even further.

You want to get the clothesline as tight as possible, but it doesn’t need to be super tight.

Remember, you aren’t stringing a banjo here. You just want some decent tension on it.

Use one hand to hold one end of the turnbuckle while tightening with the wrench.

Snug the Clothesline Up Using the Turnbuckle and a Wrench

That’s it!

The tomato trellis is ready for planting tomatoes!

Just repeat the same steps for the next row of line for the trellis and continually add line as the tomato plants grow up. Once the tomato grows to a height above the clothesline simply use twine, old panty hose, or an old t-shirt cut in strips to tie the plant to the clothesline.

Continue this as the plant grows until it reaches the top of the trellis.

Hopefully no more fallen plants.

Hopefully no more flimsy cages.

The Tomato Trellis is Now Ready for Planting TomatoesThe Tomato Trellis with Planted Tomatoes

I think the tomato trellis will work much better than cages or stakes. I believe this is a genius idea and I want to thank Kenny from veggiegardeningtips.com for the awesome idea!

What do you think? Do you believe it will work better than cages or stakes? Please let us know your ideas!

 

Original article: http://www.veggiegardener.com/build-tomato-trellis/

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas Urban Gardening

Plant-in-a-Bag Garden

Melon Tigger seeds. They are almost other-worldly!

 

So I’ve had this bag of potting soil sitting around for weeks. And I’ve had this package of adorable looking melons waiting patiently for their chance to come alive. Time kept ticking, and those melons wanted planted. Unfortunately time is also very short around here, and though each night before crashing to sleep I’d briefly try to brainstorm where I could put a container and fill it with the soil for the melons, the fact is, nothing was being done. And yet the soil waited. The seeds could be heard crying softly.

 

Today I took advice from a great little gardening book called Home Sweet Home Grown (I just posted a review of the book this yesterday; scroll down or click on the book reviews link) and I bypassed the container all together. The girls and I got those melon seeds planted (3 of them, to ensure germination, then we’ll cull all but one plant), and it took us literally 5 minutes. Voila. The laziest way to container garden! Crossing our fingers it works, and that by end of summer we’ll have some of these crazy-insane adorable tigger melons!

 

 

 

Bag of potting soil, in lower left hand corner. Doing nothing. Note the straw bale: stay tuned for  its destiny.

Three helpers ready to plant the other-worldly melons.

 

 

Bag after being dragged (with help from said three helpers) to the back yard. Holes being stabbed into the bottom for drainage. 

Bag flipped over, and hole cut from center of top.

 

Seed placed into hole. And now we wait!

 

 

 

 

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

Fast Friday Tip: Cutworm Collars

What the heck are cutworms? The name is kind of cute. But what they do is not so cute. Here is an image of a cutworm, along with the evidence of what it is they love to do.

 

Add caption

Gardeners loathe these critters. We haven’t had too much trouble with them in our food crops (knock on wood), but last summer they all but thwarted our efforts to make a sunflower house. They’d eat through every new sprout we planted, over and over.

 

There are several ideas out there for helping control cutworms. Here’s a simple one. Make a collar out of a cup by cutting out the bottom, and put it over your baby plant. Or use a toilet paper tube (we all have plenty of those, right?). Plastic containers are good, too, but they will be harder to cut away when your plant outgrows its collar. Check out all these ideas for making cutworm collars, and choose one or two. Protect those babies you worked so hard to get ready to plant in the garden!

 

 

 

 

 

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

Fast Friday Tip: Mulch Madness

Our heirloom tomatoes, freshly mulched with straw. I just snapped this photo a few minutes ago. 🙂

 

 

Mulch is your best friend. Get ahold of some and make your garden happy! It can be made of wood chips, newspaper, shredded leaves, straw. Mulches help keep soil temperatures even, help soil hold onto its moisture, and help keep down weeds. Another added benefit? Earthworms and microorganisms stay nearby…they prefer mulched soil to bare soil! I didn’t start using mulch until last year, and I noticed a huge difference in the health of the tomato plants, and how often they needed water. We all know we need to conserve water!

 

Our friends at Taking Back the Farm used 4 inches of wood mulch, and barely had to water their plants last summer, even during drought. Such a simple thing to do, with so many benefits.

 

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

Fast Friday Tip: Tomatoes in a Cat's Cradle

Here is a strong, sturdy alternative to using cages for your tomato plants.

 

 

Plant tomatoes in a row, about two feet apart, if you will be using this method. Push stakes or rebar at least 12 inches into the ground at each end of your row and between every other tomato plant. Use strong twine to weave in and out among the plants to keep them up off the ground. Every week or so, as the plants grow, add another layer of twine.

 

Click HERE for a more detailed article at Organic Gardening!

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

What to Plant Now

Mother’s Day went out with a bang last night, with one more (and hopefully last) freeze. Now I’m itching to get out and start planting everything I can think of! If you feel the same way, hold an a second…peruse this nifty online chart to see what to plant right now in your area. The ground is still too cold and wet for some things! As for me, I’ll be checking out what is safe, and let the planting begin!

What to Plant Now

Not sure what seeds you could be starting right now, or which transplants need to be set outside this season? Our regional planting guides take the guesswork out of garden planning! Click on your region in the list below to find out which garden plants need your attention right now.

regional gardening map new

 

Central/Midwest
Gulf Coast
Maritime Canada & New England
Mid-Atlantic
North Central & Rockies
Pacific Northwest
Southern Interior
Southwest

 

Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/what-to-plant-now-zl0z0903zalt.aspx#ixzz2TAYPXqsg

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas Urban Gardening

Building Raised Garden Beds

 

I am a big fan of raised garden beds. They give you a real advantage when it comes to soil conditions, since you get to control the quality of their contents (think lots and lots of good compost). Our south garden consists of raised beds on top of nothing but rocks, and our plants thrive there! Raised beds can be constructed out of almost anything you can come up with, or even made with nothing at all (you can simply make large mounds of compost/soil over your existing space). Do a Google Image search for ‘raised garden beds’, and you will be amazed at the variety of beds that people come up with.

 

This is a good, basic article on some different ways to make raised garden beds.

 

How to Make a Raised Bed Garden

By Colleen Vanderlinden, About.com Guide

 

What is a Raised Bed Garden?

A raised bed garden is a garden built on top of your native soil, sometimes incorporating native soil, sometimes not. These gardens can be contained, such as when you build a wood or stone structure to keep the bed intact, or they can be more free form, with soil and amendments merely piled several inches high. You can plant anything from herbs and vegetables to perennials and shrubs in a raised bed.

Advantages of a Raised Bed Garden

Aside from avoiding the issue of gardening in poor soil, raised beds offer several advantages:

  • They warm more quickly in spring, allowing you to work the soil and plant earlier.
  • they drain better.
  • The soil in raised beds doesn’t get compacted, because they are constructed with accessibility in mind.
  • It’s easy to tailor the soil for your raised bed to the plants you plan to grow there.
  • After the initial construction process, less maintenance is required than there is for conventional garden beds.

How to Make a Raised Bed Garden

Contained raised beds are the most popular type, and they’re great for vegetable and herb gardens, as well as flower gardens. Fruits, such as strawberries, grapes, blueberries, andraspberries, also do very well in a this type of bed.

You can choose from a variety of materials to construct your frame. Wood is a very popular choice, because it is easy to work with and it is inexpensive. Concrete blocks, natural stone, or brick are also nice options, but there is definitely an added expense and labor to consider in using them. Some gardeners go the ultra-simple route, and simply place bales of hay or straw in whatever configuration they desire, then fill it with good soil and compost and plant it up. This solution will only give you a year or so of use, because the straw will decompose, but it’s worth trying if you don’t mind replacing the bales yearly, or if you’re still developing a more permanent solution.

Since most contained raised beds are constructed from wood, here are instructions for building your own wood raised bed garden.

Step One: Select your site. If you know that you’ll be growing vegetables or herbs, or sun-loving flowers in your new garden, select a site that gets at least eight hours of sun per day. A flat, level area is important, and you should also make sure that the area has easy access to water sources as well as room for you to work.

Step Two: Determine the size and shape of your garden. Make sure that you can access all parts of the garden without stepping into the bed. One of the main advantages of a raised bed is that the soil doesn’t get compacted the way it might in a conventional bed because they are planned for accessibility. It is a good idea to keep the garden to around four feet wide, because this way you can access the middle of the bed from either side. If you’re placing your bed against a wall or fence, it should be no more than three feet wide. Any length you like will work, as long as you keep the width in control. In terms of depth, six inches is a good start, and many vegetables grow well in a bed that is six inches deep. As with many things, though, if you can do more, more is better! Ten to twelve inches would be ideal. If you have decent subsoil (not too clayey or rocky) you can simply loosen the soil with a garden fork and build a six to eight inch deep bed. If your soil is bad, or you are planning to grow crops like carrots or parsnips that need a deeper soil, your bed should be at least ten inches deep.

 

Step Three: Prep Your Site. Once you know the size and shape of your bed, you can get to work prepping the site. How much prep you will have to do is determined by the depth of the bed you’re planning, as well as the plants you’re planning to grow there. If you are planning a vegetable or herb garden, a six-inch deep bed is perfect. To save yourself some labor, you can use newspaper, landscape fabric, or cardboard to cover and smother it, then put your soil and amendments right on top. However, to ensure that your plant’s roots have plenty of room to grow, it is a good idea to dig out the existing sod and loosen the soil with a shovel or garden fork to a depth of eight to twelve inches.

Step Four: Construct the Bed. Using rot-resistant lumber such as cedar or one of the newer composite lumbers, construct your bed. Two by six lumber is perfect, as it is easy to work with and will give you six inches of depth. Cut your pieces to the desired size, then attach them together to make a simple frame. You can attach them in a variety of ways. You can make a simple butt joint at each corner, pre-drilling and then screwing the corners together with galvanized screws. You can use a small piece of wood in the corner,and attach each side to it.

Step Five: Level Your Frames. Using a level, make sure your frame is level in all directions. This is a necessary step because if your bed is not level, you will have a situation where water runs off of one part of the garden and sits in another. If part of your frame is high, just remove some of the soil beneath it until you have a level frame.

Step Six: Fill Your Garden. The whole point of a raised bed garden is that it gives you the opportunity to garden in perfect soil. Take this opportunity to fill your bed with a good mixture of quality topsoil, compost, and rotted manure. Once they’re filled and raked level, you’re ready to plant or sow seeds.

Maintaining a Raised Bed Garden

Happily, raised beds require very little maintenance. Each spring or fall, it’s a good idea to top dress with fresh compost and manure, or, if your bed only holds plants for part of the year, go ahead and dig the compost or manure into the top several inches of soil. As with any garden, mulching the top of the soil will help retain moisture and keep weeds down. Moisture retention is important, because raised beds tend to drain faster than conventional beds.

Original Article found HERE

 

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

Fast Friday Tip: Sharpen Your Shovel

A sharpened shovel will make your life much easier in the garden.

 

All you need is a flat file. Keep it simple.

 

 

Lay your shovel flat on the ground and step on the neck to keep it steady. Use your file to gently push away from you at the tip of the blade at a 45 degree angle. Follow along the top until you have nice, shiny, sharpened metal edge. Turn the blade over to remove any burrs.

 

 

 

So easy a kid can do it-with supervision, of course! 🙂