Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

Fast Friday Tip: Cutworm Collars

What the heck are cutworms? The name is kind of cute. But what they do is not so cute. Here is an image of a cutworm, along with the evidence of what it is they love to do.

 

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Gardeners loathe these critters. We haven’t had too much trouble with them in our food crops (knock on wood), but last summer they all but thwarted our efforts to make a sunflower house. They’d eat through every new sprout we planted, over and over.

 

There are several ideas out there for helping control cutworms. Here’s a simple one. Make a collar out of a cup by cutting out the bottom, and put it over your baby plant. Or use a toilet paper tube (we all have plenty of those, right?). Plastic containers are good, too, but they will be harder to cut away when your plant outgrows its collar. Check out all these ideas for making cutworm collars, and choose one or two. Protect those babies you worked so hard to get ready to plant in the garden!

 

 

 

 

 

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Uncategorized

Despite the Derecho

From LittleBigHarvest

Big storms came through our area last night (and I fell to sleep uneasily just as they started, thinking about everything that could happen, mentally going through my checklist of how to keep the family safe if I woke up to a tornado). I was having flashbacks of last summer’s awful, destructive storm, hoping the city wouldn’t go through the same damage again. I even learned a new word last night: derecho. It was all over Facebook, so of course I googled it;  a “long-lived, widespread wind storm associated with a fast moving band of thunderstorms” (more here on wiki). Wind. Ugh. My sleep was fitful and I dreamed of strong winds ripping apart the yard, the house, and strangely, I also dreamed of huge ocean waves.

 

This morning, I was pleased to find my house standing, dry, electricity on, and no apparent damage. After checking on all my sleeping family members, my next thought was the garden. Whew, everything appeared healthy, happy, and unscathed!

 

I even found my first two tomatoes this morning. Seeing the little green globes made my mouth instantly water, knowing the bursting happy flavor I’d be in store for, soon!

 

More summer storms may come, but for now, everything, including the garden, is safe.

 

1st tomato!!!

 

2nd tomato!!!

 

baby green bean

 

baby cucumber

 

baby basil

 

amish paste tomatoes

 

various other tomatoes and peppers

 

herb garden (the sage is taking over!)

 

Update: I went out later this afternoon, and found three more tomatoes. Hmm, I’m thinking all the stress and work of planting my tomatoes indoors too early MIGHT just pay off! Tomatoes in June..I don’t think that is the norm? The earlier the better.

 

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Uncategorized

Nestlé introduces bottled water for “trendy, high-income” women

 (source: www.salon.com)

Nestlé introduces bottled water for

Ladies, if you’re lucky enough to live somewhere with access to clean drinking water, then you know that the stuff coming straight from your tap is enough to keep you alive in a purely physiological sense. But can you “live your best life” while drinking H2O from the sink? Can you “have it all” while drinking off-brand bottled water you bought at the deli?

The answer is no, you can’t

And Nestlé knows that, which is why the company launched “Resource” on Monday, a premium water made specifically for “a woman who is a little more on the trendy side and higher-income side,” according to Larry Cooper, group marketing manager for Resource.

Resource is more than just a beverage, it’s a reflection of who you are as a woman in the very deepest and most personal sense of your very being, as Cooper went on to explain to the New York Times: “We want to raise it to the level of a lifestyle brand,” he said, “where she’s proud to carry around Resource as her bottled water accessory, so to speak.”

Who is the Resource woman, you ask? Well, according to the promotional video, she loves yoga, nature and controlled acrobatics set to ambient techno.

Check it out here:

Categories
Anti-Monsanto

7 Ways to Kill Poison Ivy without Roundup

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A poison ivy patch in our backyard has been the source of a lot of discomfort the past couple of years. It’s intermingled in the shrub line, an area where the kids love to climb in and around. A couple of the kids have gotten poison ivy-Noah in particular got it very badly. Last summer I went out wearing long sleeves, gloves, long pants, and a scarf to attempt to pull and cut the nasty stuff out. I ended up with a horrible case of poison ivy  and was afraid to go near it again, even though my attempts had done nothing to kill it.

The temptation to buy Roundup is strong when faced with a stubborn patch of this stuff. Even organic gardeners that I admire admit that when it comes to dreaded poison ivy they sometimes have to resort to getting a bottle of Roundup.

However, this article points out some alternatives. I don’t want to resort to Roundup, and yet I certainly don’t want to live with poison ivy!

7 ways to get rid of Poison Ivy and Poison Oak without using harsh and toxic chemical sprays.  Listed in order of distance from and contact potential with plant.  (source:www.realfarmacy.com)

1.  Graze a goat there.  Spanish and Angora goats are especially fond of poison ivy.

2.  Vinegar spray.  White vinegar will kill poison ivy, though it might take a few days to notice.  Fill your garden sprayer with straight, undiluted white vinegar and take aim at the poison ivy leaves and crowns. Try not to soak the ground, since it will result in inhospitable acidity in the soil. If you want, you can use calcitic lime to neutralize any vinegar in the soil afterwards.

3.  Salt, water, and natural soap spray.  Mix 1 gallon of water with 3 lbs of salt until well dissolved, add 1/4 cup of natural dish soap. Spray poison ivy leaves. This solution could also kill other plants in the area, so take care not to over do it.

4.  Gin Spray.  Mix 1 oz gin, 1 oz apple cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon baby shampoo, 1 quart water.  Spray onto leaves and crown during hot part of the day.  Should be dead by the next day.

5.  Burn the roots with boiling water.  A good option if you just have a few stubborn plants or vines in flowerbeds or near walkways.  Take your tea kettle full of boiling water and slowly drizzle on the very base of the plant.  This might take a few applications over a few days, but will eventually do the trick.

6.  Smother it.  Using cardboard (best option) or newspaper, cover the entire area with poison ivy, then cover the cardboard with straw, wood chips, or grass clippings to keep the cardboard in place.

7.  Pull it out.  The fastest and most effective (and most dangerous) way to get rid of it is by pulling, or chopping it out with a maddock.  Make sure if you chop it out that you get down about 8 inches and pull the vines and all out too. Fifteen percent of people are not allergic to poison ivy.  So unless you are one of the lucky few, wear gloves and wash thoroughly afterward!
Read more at http://www.realfarmacy.com/7-ways-to-kill-poison-ivy-without-using-roundup/#Kfpo56xphalJ8u0a.99

Categories
Water Conservation

Clay Pot Irrigation

This is an idea worth looking into! The concept goes back thousands of years.

Clay Pot Irrigation – a simple adaptation of an ancient technique

Maddy Harland |
Friday, 24th May 2013

Want to conserve water but still want to make sure you aren’t under-watering your garden? Want to establish a simple greenhouse irrigation system? Clay pot irrigation can save 50-70% of water without depriving your plants.

Lid.JPG

This is an adaptation of an ancient method of irrigation that is thought to have originated in Africa 4,000 years ago. It uses the porous nature of clay pots to allow osmotic pressure to suck the water into the soil where it is needed. People use beautiful fired pots called Olla with a narrow neck buried in the soil.

Unless you can make them yourself, this may prove an expensive solution so here’s an inexpensive and simple alternative.

Get hold of an ordinary 25 cm (10 inch) terracotta pot. Plug the hole with a wine cork. Bury it almost up to its neck in the soil but not too deep so that soil falls into the pot. Fill it with water. Add a terracotta lid.

Plant seedlings or sow seeds 18 inches around the base of the pot. Water will slowly seep out through the clay wall of the pot, directly irrigating the soil around the pot. As the roots grow they will wrap themselves around the pot. The plants takes up almost all the water, and because the water source is now in the ground, evaporation is almost nil.

Keep the pot filled up and you will provide a steady source of irrigation when your plants need it.

I am going to try this in my greenhouse between tomato, chilli, basil, thyme, parsley and tarragon plants this summer and see how often I need to replenish the pots and how much I can reduce watering as well.

Maddy Harland is editor and co-founder of Permaculture, a magazine that covers all aspects of low impact, intelligent living, from permaculture gardening and regenerative agriculture to green building, technology, transport and community action. For more great ideas please SUBSCRIBE.

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

Fast Friday Tip: Mulch Madness

Our heirloom tomatoes, freshly mulched with straw. I just snapped this photo a few minutes ago. 🙂

 

 

Mulch is your best friend. Get ahold of some and make your garden happy! It can be made of wood chips, newspaper, shredded leaves, straw. Mulches help keep soil temperatures even, help soil hold onto its moisture, and help keep down weeds. Another added benefit? Earthworms and microorganisms stay nearby…they prefer mulched soil to bare soil! I didn’t start using mulch until last year, and I noticed a huge difference in the health of the tomato plants, and how often they needed water. We all know we need to conserve water!

 

Our friends at Taking Back the Farm used 4 inches of wood mulch, and barely had to water their plants last summer, even during drought. Such a simple thing to do, with so many benefits.

 

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Uncategorized

Overgrown Weeds Law in Chicago Sends Native Plant Gardeners To Court

As the trend of turning yards into edible permacultures grows, I am seeing more stories like this one. It will be a struggle for a while, as society gets used to seeing food and beneficial weeds growing where there used to be tidy green lawns. 

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written by Mary Schmich of the Chicago Tribune

Chicago’s growing season is still young, and so far the alleged villain in Kathy Cummings’ garden is only 2 inches tall.

By summer’s peak, however, the accused will stand 4 gangly feet once again, and once again someone is sure to mistake it for a weed.

It’s milkweed. That is not a weed.

“If my award-winning garden got a ticket for weeds,” Cummings said one sunny day last week, standing in the small yard outside her West Town three-flat, “how safe is any garden?”

This question has nagged at her so hard and so long that she has now set out to reform Chicago’s weed ordinance.

But let’s back up.

Last fall, as my colleague Jon Yates chronicled in the Tribune in December, Cummings, a retired teacher, was ticketed for violating the weed law.

She went to court. She explained that the little dirt plots outside her home are filled with native plants. She showed the judge the plaque she received from the city of Chicago in 2004 commending her naturalized landscape.

The judge, in return, showed her several photographs taken by an inspector from the Department of Streets and Sanitation.

Looked like weeds to him, the judge said.

She was ordered to pay $640.

On her way out of court that day, Cummings asked for a copy of the photo that had particularly troubled the judge.

“I could see he was referring to milkweed,” she said.

Milkweed may sound like a weed, may look like a weed, but it is, in fact, a native plant, the only plant on which the monarch butterfly lays its eggs. The monarch butterfly happens to be the state insect of Illinois.

“The irony,” she said.

After the hearing, Cummings might have appealed her case. She resolved, instead, to fight not only her punishment but the law itself.

Using the Freedom of Information Act, she discovered that weeds are big business for the city of Chicago.

In 2009, Cummings says, the city issued 5,522 citations for weed violations and collected a little under a million dollars. Within a couple of years, after the City Council raised the fines dramatically — from $100 to $600 minimum — the number of tickets and the revenues shot up.

In 2012, according to Cummings, the city made $3.7 million from weeds. (A city representative did not answer my request to verify her numbers.)

But were all those unruly plants really weeds? A lot of them surely were, and weeds are pests. They can harbor rats, trash, drug deals. They can trigger allergies.

But how was an average citizen to be sure what constituted a weed?

The ordinance doesn’t define a weed except to say it’s vegetation taller than 10 inches that isn’t maintained. Unlike weed ordinances in some places, Chicago’s doesn’t name specific weeds.

So a few days ago, Cummings filed a legal complaint against the city.

In addition to calling the law downright unconstitutional, and claiming that native plant gardeners like Cummings are being denied their right to freedom of expression, the complaint asserts that the city is raising millions “on the backs of the poor” with a vague law that’s hard to interpret and erratically enforced.

“Say we had a law that says it’s illegal to speed,” said Cummings’ attorney, James L. Bowers. “The problem with that law is that it gives each police officer the authority to decide what’s a violation of the law. Somebody may think it’s 5 miles an hour. Or 10 miles an hour. The problem for the citizen is they don’t know what’s illegal until the police officer tells them. We’re asking the city to write a better law.”

Many native plant lovers share Cummings’ feeling. Among them is Monica Buckley, an editor for the American Bar Association and self-described “native plants enthusiast.”

In her view, not only is the law’s height limit confusing, so is the definition of a weed as vegetation that’s not maintained.

“That’s a very subjective measure,” Buckley said. “At this point, we have a city that’s ticketing people for vegetable gardens, for shrubs.”

The judges are a problem as well.

“There’s no knowledge of horticulture among the judges,” she said. “If you say, ‘These are native plants and I maintain them,’ they will not allow argument of any kind.”

Native gardens aren’t to everyone’s taste. No neat rows of tulips. No poodle hedges. They’re a riotous collection of plants that shift with the seasons. Some look weedier than others.

Largely on the grounds that aesthetics matter, a court has already rejected one claim that Chicago’s weed law is unconstitutional.

Even some native plant lovers might find Cummings’ garden a little too unruly. To her, it’s just history and nature at work.

“I like the idea of reaching back and bringing in the history of this part of the planet,” she said the other day.

She walked the small garden, touching one plant at a time. Bluebells, wild garlic, Solomon’s seal.

“This is horsetail. It’s prehistoric.”

“This little gem right here is pawpaw.”

“These are May apples. My idea is to have children walk home from school and be able to pick fruit.”

Plants, like the rest of beauty, are in the dreams of the beholder.

See original article HERE

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

Fast Friday Tip: Tomatoes in a Cat's Cradle

Here is a strong, sturdy alternative to using cages for your tomato plants.

 

 

Plant tomatoes in a row, about two feet apart, if you will be using this method. Push stakes or rebar at least 12 inches into the ground at each end of your row and between every other tomato plant. Use strong twine to weave in and out among the plants to keep them up off the ground. Every week or so, as the plants grow, add another layer of twine.

 

Click HERE for a more detailed article at Organic Gardening!

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas

What to Plant Now

Mother’s Day went out with a bang last night, with one more (and hopefully last) freeze. Now I’m itching to get out and start planting everything I can think of! If you feel the same way, hold an a second…peruse this nifty online chart to see what to plant right now in your area. The ground is still too cold and wet for some things! As for me, I’ll be checking out what is safe, and let the planting begin!

What to Plant Now

Not sure what seeds you could be starting right now, or which transplants need to be set outside this season? Our regional planting guides take the guesswork out of garden planning! Click on your region in the list below to find out which garden plants need your attention right now.

regional gardening map new

 

Central/Midwest
Gulf Coast
Maritime Canada & New England
Mid-Atlantic
North Central & Rockies
Pacific Northwest
Southern Interior
Southwest

 

Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/what-to-plant-now-zl0z0903zalt.aspx#ixzz2TAYPXqsg

Categories
Garden Tips and Ideas Urban Gardening

Building Raised Garden Beds

 

I am a big fan of raised garden beds. They give you a real advantage when it comes to soil conditions, since you get to control the quality of their contents (think lots and lots of good compost). Our south garden consists of raised beds on top of nothing but rocks, and our plants thrive there! Raised beds can be constructed out of almost anything you can come up with, or even made with nothing at all (you can simply make large mounds of compost/soil over your existing space). Do a Google Image search for ‘raised garden beds’, and you will be amazed at the variety of beds that people come up with.

 

This is a good, basic article on some different ways to make raised garden beds.

 

How to Make a Raised Bed Garden

By Colleen Vanderlinden, About.com Guide

 

What is a Raised Bed Garden?

A raised bed garden is a garden built on top of your native soil, sometimes incorporating native soil, sometimes not. These gardens can be contained, such as when you build a wood or stone structure to keep the bed intact, or they can be more free form, with soil and amendments merely piled several inches high. You can plant anything from herbs and vegetables to perennials and shrubs in a raised bed.

Advantages of a Raised Bed Garden

Aside from avoiding the issue of gardening in poor soil, raised beds offer several advantages:

  • They warm more quickly in spring, allowing you to work the soil and plant earlier.
  • they drain better.
  • The soil in raised beds doesn’t get compacted, because they are constructed with accessibility in mind.
  • It’s easy to tailor the soil for your raised bed to the plants you plan to grow there.
  • After the initial construction process, less maintenance is required than there is for conventional garden beds.

How to Make a Raised Bed Garden

Contained raised beds are the most popular type, and they’re great for vegetable and herb gardens, as well as flower gardens. Fruits, such as strawberries, grapes, blueberries, andraspberries, also do very well in a this type of bed.

You can choose from a variety of materials to construct your frame. Wood is a very popular choice, because it is easy to work with and it is inexpensive. Concrete blocks, natural stone, or brick are also nice options, but there is definitely an added expense and labor to consider in using them. Some gardeners go the ultra-simple route, and simply place bales of hay or straw in whatever configuration they desire, then fill it with good soil and compost and plant it up. This solution will only give you a year or so of use, because the straw will decompose, but it’s worth trying if you don’t mind replacing the bales yearly, or if you’re still developing a more permanent solution.

Since most contained raised beds are constructed from wood, here are instructions for building your own wood raised bed garden.

Step One: Select your site. If you know that you’ll be growing vegetables or herbs, or sun-loving flowers in your new garden, select a site that gets at least eight hours of sun per day. A flat, level area is important, and you should also make sure that the area has easy access to water sources as well as room for you to work.

Step Two: Determine the size and shape of your garden. Make sure that you can access all parts of the garden without stepping into the bed. One of the main advantages of a raised bed is that the soil doesn’t get compacted the way it might in a conventional bed because they are planned for accessibility. It is a good idea to keep the garden to around four feet wide, because this way you can access the middle of the bed from either side. If you’re placing your bed against a wall or fence, it should be no more than three feet wide. Any length you like will work, as long as you keep the width in control. In terms of depth, six inches is a good start, and many vegetables grow well in a bed that is six inches deep. As with many things, though, if you can do more, more is better! Ten to twelve inches would be ideal. If you have decent subsoil (not too clayey or rocky) you can simply loosen the soil with a garden fork and build a six to eight inch deep bed. If your soil is bad, or you are planning to grow crops like carrots or parsnips that need a deeper soil, your bed should be at least ten inches deep.

 

Step Three: Prep Your Site. Once you know the size and shape of your bed, you can get to work prepping the site. How much prep you will have to do is determined by the depth of the bed you’re planning, as well as the plants you’re planning to grow there. If you are planning a vegetable or herb garden, a six-inch deep bed is perfect. To save yourself some labor, you can use newspaper, landscape fabric, or cardboard to cover and smother it, then put your soil and amendments right on top. However, to ensure that your plant’s roots have plenty of room to grow, it is a good idea to dig out the existing sod and loosen the soil with a shovel or garden fork to a depth of eight to twelve inches.

Step Four: Construct the Bed. Using rot-resistant lumber such as cedar or one of the newer composite lumbers, construct your bed. Two by six lumber is perfect, as it is easy to work with and will give you six inches of depth. Cut your pieces to the desired size, then attach them together to make a simple frame. You can attach them in a variety of ways. You can make a simple butt joint at each corner, pre-drilling and then screwing the corners together with galvanized screws. You can use a small piece of wood in the corner,and attach each side to it.

Step Five: Level Your Frames. Using a level, make sure your frame is level in all directions. This is a necessary step because if your bed is not level, you will have a situation where water runs off of one part of the garden and sits in another. If part of your frame is high, just remove some of the soil beneath it until you have a level frame.

Step Six: Fill Your Garden. The whole point of a raised bed garden is that it gives you the opportunity to garden in perfect soil. Take this opportunity to fill your bed with a good mixture of quality topsoil, compost, and rotted manure. Once they’re filled and raked level, you’re ready to plant or sow seeds.

Maintaining a Raised Bed Garden

Happily, raised beds require very little maintenance. Each spring or fall, it’s a good idea to top dress with fresh compost and manure, or, if your bed only holds plants for part of the year, go ahead and dig the compost or manure into the top several inches of soil. As with any garden, mulching the top of the soil will help retain moisture and keep weeds down. Moisture retention is important, because raised beds tend to drain faster than conventional beds.

Original Article found HERE